

Q: Does cooking in aluminum foil have the same results as cooking in
parchment paper?
A: In theory, the answer is that ingredients can be cooked in aluminum foil
instead of parchment paper but the end result is likely to be very different.
Cooking in parchment paper is known as en papillote in French and al
Cartoccio in Italian. During the class where this question arose, we were
preparing Dover sole en Papillote. This is a perfect technique for delicate fish
filets. Papillote is derived from a word for butterfly which is a hint of how the
paper is folded to hold the food.
You fold a foot long sheet in half and cut out butterfly wings or a piece that
looks very much like half of a heart so when you open it up, it resembles the
shape of a valentine. The paper is buttered on the inside protecting it for
cooking, but is still porous to the exchanges of flavor in the heat of the oven.
Food is placed on one side of the paper, and the other side is folded over and
sealed much like the origami style of folding the edges over each other all the
way around the outside of the paper. As food inside cooks, the fatter top part
of the folded paper will puff beautifully, while the skinny end captures the
juices.
Aluminum foil could be used for this recipe, but unlike paper which is
permeable, foil is airtight thereby slowing down the cooking process.
Anything that is sealed in the foil will be more steamed then almost coddled. A
delicate fish such as Dover Sole is cooked to perfection in less than 10
minutes. It is much easier to overcook a delicate fish in aluminum foil leading
to a mushier fish with less concentrated aromas and profound flavors. On the
other hand, the parchment paper will puff up allowing the flavors to intensify.
When the parchment package, browned and inflated from the heat is opened,
the aromatics will be dramatic and wonderful before you take your first bite.
Aluminum foil does have the advantage of being able to be tossed onto the
grill. Parchment paper can not be near an open flame or used under your
broiler. Like a soufflé, cooking en papillote requires a fast, strong burst of heat
of at least 400 degrees to inflate.
In addition, some vegetables or seasonings, because of their acidity, may
discolor the foil. For example, tomatoes and some wines result in discoloration
of the foil and are unsightly on the plate. The beauty of cooking en papillote is
having the visual appeal of this oval envelope of parchment puffed from the
steam within. Opening this gift on your plate is nothing less than exciting.
Try this approach the next time you have guests to your home. Cooking en
papillote is a perfect cooking method for dinner parties. The packets can be
prepared ahead of time and popped into the oven while you and your guests are
savoring your first course. Enjoy!
Parchment paper can be purchased in most well stocked grocery stores. It is
sold in a roll like aluminum foil.
Send us your cooking questions. We’d be happy to help answer them.

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